Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Wait Just a Minute Machu Picchu

"Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu, wait just a minute I am really standing here at Machu Picchu!!!". What else can you say? It is so unreal that even when it is real it is not real. After a bus ride (where we were an hour late getting to the train), a train ride, a short night in a hostal, awaking at 3,30 am so we could get to the line in time to climb Wayana Picchu, climbing 7,000+ KM, what else can one think but OMG I really made it here?! Not to mention the 12 hour day at the site and arriving back home at 3am on Monday. The beauty of the journey, the surroundings, it was all so incredibly intense for me.

Yes, I took several hundred photos and some video. Yes, it was amazing. Yes, I want to take Sophia there when she is old enough to appreciate the insane beauty and spirituality of the site. Yes, it was exhausting. Yes, those are some steep ascents and descents up and down Wayan Picchu. Yes, I am really out of shape and a bit sore. Yes, my fellow volunteers and I are closer than ever with yet another shared experience.

No, I did not even realize how amazing it was until I was there in person. No, I did not know all the symbolism of the mountains and animals (condor, puma, and snake) or the structure of the site. No, I did not know the Incan motto was "love, respect, share". No, our tour guide did not leave us even though we were 45 minutes late from climbing down the mountain. No, I will never forget this last weekend.

Maybe, well, there was no maybe this time.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Soy una Madriña

"Eres la Madriña de Jessica", the girls and one of the directors tell me. I am confused because I think this means I am her adopted mother, or that I should/will adopt her in the near future. The subject of taking her has been raised numerous times by some of the older girls in the last few days. I have managed to get baby Jessica a 40 pack of pampers, another 2 litres of milk, and on Monday I am bringing lotion for her dried out face. "Si, Madriña", I answered hoping I did not just commit myself to some unkonown and impossible situation. Then as we spoke further some of the pieces of Jessicas life began to fall into place.

I have noticed that another woman who seems quite vacant, as though she were on drugs or ill, has been around the orphanage. She cleans dishes, hangs laundry, and once I have seen her feed Jessica broth. As it turns out that is her mother! They found her with Jessica and her son (who is also at the orphanage) on the street with Jessica sitting on the sidewalk buck naked in her own urine. This woman when asked does not want to give Jessica up for adoption; although, she is completely mentally ill (and I suspect mentally handicapped based on her interactions). Truly it is heartbreaking. The problem is that Peruvian orphanages are not state run. The folks who run them receive some funding but there are no guidelines like we have in the states. Therefore, the conditions between programs can be vastly different from really well run to very poor and disorganize (mine falls in the latter camp). Even so I can tell the director wishes that Jessicas mother would let her go to another family as she is severly underdeveloped, and this woman is completely incapable of caring for her child.

My fellow volunteer Jon has been amazing and now every 13 year old girl in the place has a serious crush on him (which I love to tease him about). But then again how many of them have watched a man clean a kitchen floor by hand with a wet towel and then help them with their chemistry homework? Since we had such a great time playing kick ball in the dirt alleyway that runs along side the orphanage Jon finds out that there is a park we can take the kids to next week. He suggests we become startegic in our plans for following week to which I wholeheartedly concur. Monday we plan to take the kids to the park which will cost 20 Soles. I am going to buy a bunch of tooth brushes so we can teach them about dental hygeine, and today on our trip to Machu Pichu we are going to work up a plan for structured English lessons with the younger kids.

The last several days have been both rewarding and frustrating. I have learned phrases in Quetchuan, kids card tricks, laughed a lot and been able to tease the kids even with the language barriers, received 6 hand made cards from the girls saying how much they love their "hermanita Shanne", held baby Jessica in my arms as she feel asleep two nights in a row, and watched Jessica laugh, practice walking, and feed herself two pieces of fruit. I have had the pleasure of working with Jon who has brought the children watermelon among many other gifts, but more importantly his never ending enthusiasm and love. Unfortunately I have also seen my first 2 litres of milk spoil as it was left out all night, the birthday cake hoarded and not completely gone after the party, no diapers for Jessica, and discovered that Jessicas mother is, as they say in Spanish, an imbecil.

However in the end I am glad to be Jessicas as well as the other childrens Madriña, because after all it is a wonderful gift to be given the title of Godmother.

*To see a picture of Jessica check out my Face Book page at Shannon Kinnie Foster

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Feliz Cumpleaños, Freseney!

I wake each morning to sunrise in the Andes mountains. At 10,000 feet above sea level it is a beautiful slow march for the sun, and then suddenly the sky is the most gorgeous deep blue. It is a blue I have never seen anywhere else; special only to this land. My room is small with a modest twin size wooden bed and a hard uneven matress. But my host mother is a wonderful cook, and the view from my room makes up for any lack of comfort. Today I had to wake early as I have my Spanish leassons again at the San Blas school. Then I must return home for lunch. In Latin America lunch is the biggest meal of the day. Although I could go eat elsewhere, I like the comfort and closeness of my host family. After my lunch I will go to the orphanage, and then later this evening a group of us will get a Peruvian cooking lesson.

I have decided to take a shower every other day since it appears we only have cold water. After my quick cold shower I amble downstairs to see what Violetta has in store for my tastebuds today. Yet another wonderful breakfast, my favorite eggs and sausage (well bacon is my favorite but this was close). After breakfast and a, Hasta Luego, I am off to try and get a taxi to the school on my own accord. I take taxis everywhere. This city is a bit like the wild wild west. Buses (read vans) that should hold 12 people hold 26, I know because I was on one. Taxis drive 4 deep on two lane roads and the honking never stops. It is a language all of their own. My taxi costs 2.5 Soles which equates to roughly 1$ US. I always try to take the cabs with official numbers, older drivers, and if possible a lot of Catholic Saint portraits hanging in the window. I certainly pray evertime I get into one. Today I take a younger driver. As he begins to enquire after the common questions, where are you from?, are you staying here long?, why are you here?, how old are you?, he asks if I am married. Now it is ok for me to say that I am divorced in the company of friends and mi familia, but to him I lie. Yes, I am married, my husband is Matt and he is very tall and strong. He is with our daughter in the States (with an intonation to let him know that he will come over here to kick your butt if you get fresh mister). It is best not to be honest. He seems to lose interest and finally we are at the school.

My lessons are private and Gustavo is a great and very patient teacher. I have been studying on my day off, and Gustavo is pleased with my progress, though slow, I am diligent. Jon and I agreed yesterday to get supplies for the orphanage after class, but he does not see me at school so he slips out on his own. I decide to write in my electronic diary (known as email) while I wait for him to return, and I lose half of everything after an hour and a half of writing. Computers here are like 13 year old girls, unreliable, slow when you need them to be fast, and moody as to when they will even work. Jon returns shortly before I head home for lunch with printer paper, colored pencils, and 4 balls. We are both incredibly excited about what this will mean to the kids. I am still determined to get things for baby Jessica.

After a delicious lunch of white beans, rice, and a thin beef steak I take a brief siesta. I need the rest before the orphanage. Not only is it physically draining it is incredibly emotional as I have mentioned previously. I should also mention that my host mother makes me chicha morrado for lunch. It is a local Peruvian drink made from maize morrado which grows only in Peru. In other words, it is a purple corn not good for eating that is boiled and then ferments in water. You drink the juice, as it were, with a bit of sugar. It is quite tasty actually. There is also another chicha which is made from a different type of corn left to ferment thereby turning into corn beer.

My taxi arrives at the orphanage. It is near the Plaza San Sebastian across from the Collegio de Virgen de Fatima. Some of the older kids who we have not met yet go to Collegio and do not arrive home until later. Immediately there are Holas and hugs and smiling faces. Everyone is downstairs eating lunch at a proper table this time. Jon is already there and holding baby Jessica. At 21 this young student of Micro Biology is one of several impressive fellow volunteers. As soon as you meet him you sense his compassion and good heartedness. The kids are amazed at him because he is blonde and about 6,3 in height. He asks me to teach him about babies since he has not worked with them, and since he plans to be a pediatric doctor he wants to gain more first hand experience. I assure him I would be happy to help, and my concern with Jessica is she is at about a 6 month developmental stage. In fact my friends baby, Keir, is more interactive at 3 months then she is at one year. I take baby Jessica into my arms, and I am happy to say she has a clean diaper and has been fed. I really want to work with her to make eye contact, smile, make sounds, and try to walk. Ironically the kids break out this drink that is like a Pepsi with vitamins. It is their after lunch treat, and little Jessica comes alive.

I had sat Jessica down for a moment, and all of sudden she starts crawling to the table. Ahhh, she sees the drink and she wants some I realize. Now I do not approve of giving babies cola but this is their ritual. It also gets her excited, and I am in no position to resist. So I gently pick her up and hold her hands and we walk together to the table. We get her a cup and I have to spoon feed her the cola. She is very very pleased with herself! She does not have a bottle or sippy cup so I mentally add this to the list of things for Jessica.

The older girls start asking me if I like babies, if I want to have another, etc. They then tell me that Freseney, who is at the Collegio, is turning 13 today. They ask if we would buy her and the others something sweet so they could have a fiesta. You see nothing as far as I can tell has been planned. I tell them I will confer with Jon. After Jessica finishes her (gasp) cola I bring out the ball. She really likes it!! She hits it with her hands, and I roll it to her and she sort of rolls it to me. I tickle her and I get a smile. My day is already a thousand times better than yesterday; yet unbelievably, it continues to improve.

I go upstairs with baby Jessica to join Jon in the play room, and the kids have ripped into the paper and pencils. They are drawing and making pinwheels. The boys help the girls make their pinwheels that they then hold out of the window in order to watch them spin in the cool mountain air. I am drawing hearts on cards that the girls are making and everyone is having fun. Jon and I decide indeed we will go get a cake for Freseneys birthday, and I also determine that I will get milk, a bottle, and some baby food for Jessica.

One of the orphanage directors and Karin (13) walks us to the Super Market 15 minutes away. It is actually a very modern market in most aspects. As Jon and Karin look at cakes I get a princess castle bottle with handles so she can start practicing gripping and drinking. I get 2 litres of fresh milk (they literally pour it from a large vat into plastic bags) for $1 US. Then it is off to the baby food aisle. They only have fruit baby food in jars so I grab some of those and a huge jar of strawberry marmelade for all the other kids. Sum total of my costs for all of the above, $11. Jon scored an enormous fruit and chocolate cake for $10. We were going to have a fiesta grande!!

When we get back to the orphanage there is excitement in the air. The directors husband who just came into town helps us set up. We fix up a table with a table cloth, set benches enough for everyone around the perimeter of the room, and put out the cake. The husband fixes the stereo so there will be music, baby Jessica has been redressed in pink and now everyone is wanting to hold her, and Jon replaces the burnt out lightbulbs. The mood was contagiously exciting!!

The older kids get home from Collegio and immediately begin to ask Jon and I questions. The directors are in the kitchen making popcorn and some kind of chocolate drink, and Freseney is excited because she is going to have a great party! Unfortunately for Juan (as we call Jon) and I we have to leave for our cooking lesson. We keep pushing the time limit though, helping the girls with their English homework and playing with the kids. Finally at seven we have to leave because we are already late. We say good evening and leave feeling hopeful and even helpful after a much improved day.

Our cooking lesson was a short taxi ride from San Blas, and was held in the home of another host family. Dina a woman in her 50s was not only exceptionally beautiful and kind but an amazing cook. We made a dish that takes mashed potato which you stuff like a giant ostrich egg with sauteed chicken, onion, bell pepper, and spices. Roll it in flour and then fry it until golden. Serve with a side of steamed broccoli and a vegetable medely of beets, green beans, carrots, mixed in mayonaise. Add a little cocoa tea (not addictive but helps with altitude sickness) and Coca Cola to drink it was a delicious home cooked meal.

It was a wonderful evening sitting around the table eating and talking. The group formed from a collection of four college students from all over the US- Hannah, Andrea, Jon, and Russ, Dina our hostess, Rita (an ex-corporate worker from Morocco) and myself. We spoke Spanish and English and tried to laugh about the affront from a Peruvian man that happened to Hannah, 19, today after she left her project. See, unfortunately it is not uncommon for this to occur with women here in Cusco. Hannah confronted this man after he followed her for several blocks and as she did so he began grabbing at her arms. I told her in an appropriate woman-mother fashion to start screaming curses in his face, poke both of his eyes, and knee him in the groin. Let us just say after that everyone chimed in with their suggestions which reached the pretty hysterical culminating with unexpectedly funny suggestions from Dina our hostess (let us just say that she was making some mean faces and using a grabbing, pulling, and twisting gesture with her hands).

As we said our goodbyes and headed to catch our respective taxis home I began to think how much this is a place of extremes (at least from my perspective). Sometimes the only way to cope with them is through half a measure of common sense followed with hard work, and half a measure of humor and laughter. However upon further reflection, I find that all this seems to be the case at home though as well, now doesnt it?

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

>What they need is love

There is a singing outside my window. They are clanging bells and wailing a sad tune. I dont know why, or what they are saying, but it matches my heart. It is heavy with todays work. I want to write a lot about my experience, but if I begin to tell you about the 20 or so orphan children crammed into the 3 story apartment in a less than desireable neighborhood I may not be able to keep it together. Or maybe you do want to know about the one year old, Jessica, who was fed broth for lunch and was crying incessantly. How I went and picked her up and realized she had been crying because of a dirty diaper. That the dirty diaper full of caca had started to dry on her bottom, and they had to go buy diapers because they were out. After a 10 minute wait, Flor, an 11 year old little girl helped me change her diaper and redress Jessica on a bed. Flors bed in fact because there is no changing station. Jeanetta who co-operatively runs the orphanage said when I arrived...mainly what the children need is love. I agree, there does not seem to be enough love or attention to go around.

Yes, I would rather tell you about the Plaza de las Armas, my wonderful host family, the effects of cocoa tea on altitude sickness, insane taxi rides, my Spanish lessons, my fellow volunteers, and much more but I can not. As a mother my heart is breaking. As a mother I want to grab my daughter and squeeze her til she bursts.

Tomorrow my fellow volunteer Jon and I will go buy paper, crayons, pencils, maybe some books, and I knew there was a reason I brought baby wipes. I am certain I will be buying Jessica some milk and baby food since she has none. I brought some cash to cover additional expenses and to purchase some small gifts for friends; I am afraid my friends that Jessica will be getting your gift. I hope you wont mind. Yes, they need love and protection and shelter; isnt that what we all want at the end of the day. To be loved so we are not alone in this challenging life. I will give them my love gladly; please go give someone yours.

Friday, May 14, 2010

Am I Ready Yet?

No I am not ready yet!! I can't wait to get on the plane so I can stop getting ready to get on the plane!!!

Before I go a last minute shout out to two more donations!!

Suzy Trotta (aka La Mayor)
Mike Bensey (once again thanks man!!)

I will announce who won what with the bids when I return and get everyone their prizes...yay!!!

Ok, well back to packing, CD burning, and last minute panicking. Hope to blog again soon...and wow I really am going to Peru!!!

Monday, May 10, 2010

Mothers' Love

Wow, I had a great time at my "Kick Me Out of The Country Party" on Saturday night! Thanks to everyone who was able to attend and those who sent their regards. I still have the Silent Auction going through Friday so get your bid in and get something awesome for yourself or a loved one!! A shout out to the following folks for their support:

Kate Moore (of Kate Moore Creative...she also designed my uber cool auction poster!!)
Keir Woods (of the Woods clan)
Anonymous (thanks for the X's and O's whomever you may be)
Mike Bensey (of Impulse Inc and also a giver of beef jerky aka the perfect travel food)

I am so grateful for the support and well wishes from all of you!!

Now for the Peru preparation update. So, I actually went and had a non-Cosmo related Spanish lesson with my friend Peggy last week! To celebrate Cinco de Mayo we went to La Esperanza for some truly authentic Mexican food. Located at the junction of Whittle Springs and Washington Pike the diner is tucked in the back of the grocery store. I am telling you it is now my favorite Mexican food in Knoxville. The quality is outstanding and the environment is as real as it gets (in Knoxville anyway). Our waitress who was from Ecuador spoke Spanish so it was a great opportunity for me to listen to Peggy (a Spanish teacher) and her converse, and I also practiced a bit myself. I am happy to say although I can not speak Spanish very well (yet), I understood a lot of the exchange. I mention this experience for many reasons. First because I really want some folks to try out the food, but also because the conversation between the waitress and Peggy got me thinking. She was telling Peggy how she came to be in the states. How her ex-husband got deported and that her ex-boyfriend is in jail for domestic abuse. How she has a two year old child that she is now caring for alone. You know as mothers and as women it does not matter where you are from we all have many hurdles to overcome. Not only does she have to worry about providing for her son (all the while she is away from her folks in Ecuador), but she also has a new language to learn; much like the situation I will be in soon. After I went home that evening and broke out my books to study more about Incan/Andean culture the thought of motherhood and it's challenges were heavy on my mind. As I dug a little beyond my Lonely Planet guide and into the history of the area this is some of what I found.

Although Catholicism is the main religion these days, there are still many festivals and traditions that are celebrated relating back to the beliefs from long ago. One of these is in regards to Mama Pacha or Pachamama. Defined as: "a goddess revered by the indigenous people of the Andes Pachamama is usually translated as "Mother Earth" but a more literal translation would be "Mother world" (in Aymara and Quechua mama = mother / pacha = world or land; and later spread fairly modern as the cosmos or the universe).[1] Pachamama and Inti are the most benevolent deities and are worshiped in parts of the Andean mountain ranges, also known as Tawantinsuyu (stretching from present day Ecuador to Chile and Argentina)." - Wikipedia

It is interesting that the Andean people jointly worship the Virgin Mary and Pachamama (who has also been revered as the Virgin de Candelaria) side by side with no thought that one should eradicate the other. Mama Pacha giving nourishment to us through the harvest/earth and Mary nourishing our soul/spirit. Both mothers, both giving of themselves in similar, yet slightly different ways. One of the traditions is to sprinkle a libation on the ground before a meeting or festival in honor of Pachamama. I don't think you have to believe in any religion to know that mothers (and fathers) give of themselves all of the time. I find the idea of Pachamama appealing as I have set a goal for myself to keep the balance by always giving back as much as I receive. I find that at times I have been all to willing to tip those scales in my favor.

So, after my daughter and I went to our garden plot on Mother's Day to harvest our first set of strawberries, I thought of Mama Pacha and all mothers. As we ate the berries I tipped a little of my water to the ground in honor of the love of all mothers including (but not limited to) Pachamama, Virgin Mary, my mother, grandmothers, and even our Ecuadorian waitress. I hope that when I get to Peru I can give back in a way that all of the Mama's would be proud of and help to keep the scales a little more balanced.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Cosmo Says...

First and foremost THANKS to the following folks who have bid/donated this week:

Vania Smrkovski
Concord Title- Trevor Piety
Kevin Simcoe

and a big thanks to Bernard Aurthur for the remaining 5,000 Marriott points!!  Now I have a great hotel to stay at in Lima the night before I head home!!

Don't forget to bid on your item at: http://www.firstgiving.com/shannonfoster

Well, like I said in my last post I have got to get a move on with the Spanish language studying!!  So, I rented three movies.  So far I have only watched one, but it is one of my old favorites, Like Water for Chocolate.  The one and only Lawson McGhee library has it in Spanish with English subtitles, for FREE!!!  This is one of the many reasons I love the library.  Unfortunately, all the movies I got are tear jerkers.  I need to go rent something funny or ya'll may find me sobbing in a heap on the floor.

However, the most fun I have had so far is "reading" a Spanish Cosmopolitan magazine.  I will admit it is a lot more fun to learn the language with a Cosmo in hand than a grammar book.  I mean I seem to instinctually translate the phrases about shoes and makeup...hmmm??  Anyway, my friend Maria and I poured over the Cosmo the other evening before a rousing game of Scattergories at my best friend Jen's casa (and yes I won Scattergories again thereby retaining my undefeated title).   Maria lived in Mexico as a student and so we had a lot of fun translating the magazine together.  (Read: Maria had a lot of fun watching me try to translate the magazine as she so deftly read and understood all of it while laughing at my attempts).  Even though I may only be able to speak phrases that you see in the Cosmo quizzes like "You know he likes you if he brings you coffee at work" or "Let me tell you how to keep your romance alive" I don't think anyone will mind all that much!   They might say "Ma'am please pay for your meal now" and I will sweetly reply, "Let me tell you how to keep your romance alive".   Ok, well maybe I need to get those Vis-Ed cards out too??  Until next time, buenas tardes mis amogos...